Travelogue - Batanes, the Secret Places in the Philippines

The raging sea beats the island of Batanes' as if togroup to go down to absorb the scenery. There is
say I am King.nothing more lovely than sitting at edge of a cliff to
The waves violently slap the rocks with enviablestare at the horizon. No skyscraper, no boats, not a
freedom. Its stammering power heeds no remorse.single living person litter my view, just clear blue skies. I
The island however doesn't back down, doesn't fold-uppretend this really is the edge of the world.
or disintegrates. It takes a proud beating with a 'Hah', I12:30 pm - Honesty Store in the town of Ivana
am Batanes.Lunch takes place in an unmanned small canteen
Batanes should indeed be proud of its coffers. It offersstocked with goodies (mami, chips, sodas, biscuits).
an amazing landscape that is as complex as a RogerOwners put their faith in customers' honesty...hence the
Dean art work. The twisting spiraling mountains roll forstore moniker.
miles and miles carpeted with green pastures. Atop its2:10 pm - Marlboro Country
numerous cliffs one can get a front seat view of theAfter a belly filling lunch I head Payaman town dubbed
feisty merging waters of the China Sea with theas Marlboro Country. The tour guide boasts 'Makikita
Pacific Ocean.mo parang wala ka sa Pilipinas'. The town does have
There is also something incredibly charming about thea different feel to it. The pasture, from a far, is a
island's unique stone houses. Around 3 meters thick,mixture of deep green and brown hues. The guide
these rock abodes crafted by the ancestors haveexplained the brown color is actually thin bamboo
stood against torturous rain and bullying winds. Thewood that cordons an Ivantan family's land from his
roofs are made of cogon providing water proof shade.neighbor. This village is Batanes' version of Tagaytay
From afar the houses create an amazing texture ofHighlands but instead of golf courses it is actually cattle
color and form that is bucolic and unlike anything thatpasture. Fantastic!
I've ever been in the provinces I've visited.DAY 3- Sabtang Island
In spite the amazing scenery the island's greatestSabtang is considered one of the 12 best destinations
strength is its people - the Ivatans. Storm warriors byby the Department of Tourism in 1994. Compared to
birth they still posses a gentle demeanor, friendlyBatan, the island is less affluent but is more charming
disposition and an unbelievable sense of(in my opinion). Batan's modern influences has
trustworthiness. Crime is said to be non-existent inconverted its precious stone houses to concrete walls
Batanes and people find no need to lock their doors.and thatched roofs. Meanwhile Sabtang still has their
There is even a sign posted in the city treasury thatcobble stoned streets and stone houses intact. Albeit
reads "LOST AND FOUND - MONEY. Please claimthe Sabtang is also beginning to deteriorate as people
inside".there are starting to modernize their houses. The
As most travel junkies know Batanes is thedanger of spoilage of Batanes is an issue the
northernmost province of the Philippines and itsgovernment must pay attention but that's another
smallest island both in terms of land area andarticle altogether.
population. Among its ten petite islands only three areSabtang's landscape is also more breathtaking than
inhabited - Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang. Sandwiched byBatan's. Steep mountains, deep cannons and a
Babuyan Island and Taiwan, the province is closer toseemingly endless strip of white beach is amazing.
Taipei than Manila. In fact an urban legend states thatSheer limestone cliffs that plunge into cerulean waters
on a clear day one can see Taiwan and hear Chinesebelow makes it so surreal. I was able to swim in
roosters crow.Batanes waters!
Growth in Batanes' tourism has been spurred byP.S. Oh and by the way I saw an independent movie
airlines such as Asian Spirit that conveniently jetsproduction shooting a scene in the island (these guys
weekly flights (for a P10,000 round trip ticket price).did the indie film called Donsol). I heard Angel Aquino
Surprisingly posh, the main airport is located in Basco,was the star. Interesting...
the province's capital (found in Batan island). Albeit the8 pm - Dinner Time
flight being a bit choppy, I land safely in Batanes andA birthday party thrown by a fellow adventure seeker
seek my adventure.spiced up the night. A belly popping feast includes fresh
DAY 1 - Going around Bascotuna sashimi, lobsters and lechon. We washed it down
A refreshing contrast to other city centers, Basco haswith a Pinoy ubiquitous drink - Tanduay. Yum.
neither a mall nor a Starbucks coffee shop - yet. TheOther memorable dishes I had in Batanes were fresh
pseudo-commercial center is a small lane filled with tinyblue marlin tuna steak, green pepper filled lapu-lapu fillet,
groceries, supplies stores and ukay-ukay shops. Zerobeef steak (lemme tell you they have lots of cows
tricycles explain the quiet streets and only a couple ofhere), cuttle fish and pizza. Yes pizza...there is a pizza
jeeps and automobiles exist here.maker in Basco named Ivan, my favorite flavors are
2:00 pmpepperoni, garlic and cheese and anchovies pizza. You
Shanedel's, a family managed inn is a great place tohave to order in advance to be able to enjoy its
bunk. The place has a killer view of the Batan Bay andyumminess.
is right beside the busy Basco port. An old lighthouseDAY 4 - Going Home
perched on a hill can also be seen. Languid cowsFlights from Batanes to Manila always take off at
graze the pasture. The bovines stood so still I almostaround 10 am. There was a certain melancholic feeling
doubted they were real.that washed over me as I left the quaint island.
5:10 pmProbably because I'll be going back to the circus I call
Conveniently, the lighthouse is just a 20 minute walkmy life. I guess one thing I have in common with
from my place. The sky was turning crimson as theBatanes is that just like its islands I always try to win
sun prepared to rest when the moon decided to dropover life's metaphoric raging waves.
by. I can't tell you how amazing it is to see the sun setTHE CHECKLIST
and the moon reveal itself simultaneously.Batanes will definitely see me again. There are also so
8:45 pmmany stuff I wasn't able to do.
Fried flying fish, was my first Batanes dinner. The meatHere is my list:
was okay. Nothing fantastic.1. Fly to Itbaya which is Batanes third inhabited island. I
DAY 2 Exploring Batan Islandwas supposed to go but unfortunately the only light
Batan, is Batanes' second largest island that serve asaircraft that flies to the island was broken. For those
the center of commerce and houses the seat of thewho wish to go to Batanes I suggest you go explore
provincial government. Travelers can arrange tourItbaya first before doing the other island as it is much
rides that will explore Batan's municipalities whichharder to access.
include Basco, Ivana, Uyugan and Mahatao.2. Climb Mount Iraya
10 am3. Visit Mavudis island which is the northernmost island
The 'jeepney topload' is the best seat to take whenof Batanes. Coconut crabs litter the rich marine life
viewing Batan's landscape. The ride snakes throughfilled island.
the island's rolling terrain. Above me are spectacular4. Explore Nakabuwang Cave in Sabtang and the
mountain formations that resemble stoic hunched-backChawa cave which is said to be enchanted. It has a
giants. The white sand beach below me boasts pristinenatural salt bed and a mouth that opens to South
waters that splash against massive rocks.China Sea.
Occasionally the driver parks his vehicle and allows my